Claude Branger started with his father, working “derrière le cheval” on 7 hectares. He now owns 26.5 hectares of vines and his son, Sébastien, who arrived officially at the domain in 2007, works right beside him. These conscientious winegrowers—they harvest by hand—never yielded to the sirens of doing things the easy way. They like ripe but very dry Muscadets.